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Not another bite......please.

The food here is awesome but I eat so so so much.  My mamá is an amazing cook but I seriously never want to eat again.  Ever.  I feel sick after every meal because of how much she gives us.  And she’s always offering us more, which I almost always turn down.  But here’s an example to demonstrate the situation:  today at lunch, she gave us large plates each with an entire fish and lots of vegetables including potatoes.  An entire fish with the head and everything.  It watched me as I ate it…creepy.  Anyway, the way the food is cooked makes it very heavy and filling.  They use a lot of fat and savory flavors in cooking pretty much everything.  So when I saw the plate, it seemed challenging but not the most food she’s ever given us.  I would be stuffed but okay.  Then she brought each of us a bowl full of beans.  And a BUNCH of hot tortillas.  As always, the food tasted great but I felt despair as I began to feast.  When I was almost done, I felt SUPER full.  But I was almost there.  Then, she asked me if I wanted salad.  I said no, thanks.  So she asked me if I was sure because there was salad if I wanted it.  So I said no, thanks.  And she asked me again if I was sure.  So I said, yes I’m sure but thank you.  About two minutes later, she asked me again if I wanted salad.  The end of the meal was in sight and I did NOT want salad.  So I said AGAIN, no thank you.  And she asked me again if I was sure so I said, yes I’m full.  About two minutes later she AGAIN asked me if I wanted salad.  So I said no.  And she asked me if I wanted just a little bit.  I said no.  She asked, “not even a little bit?”  So I gave in.  I agreed to eat a little bit of salad, thinking it would be some iceberg lettuce and carrots (that’s what their leafy salads are here).  It wasn’t iceberg.  It was a heavy, savory salad with lots of potatoes and mayonnaise.  I thought I was going to lose everything currently occupying my extremely stretched stomach.  But I did it.  I ate it.  As I forced down the last bite, she brought out a dessert.  Distraught, I watched her come towards me with the desert.  It was a little bit like flan except richer, heavier, and with a honey flavor.  Emphasis on the heavier part.  Eating that entire piece was so hard!  With each bite, I had to concentrate to get it down.  The last bite was the worst.  My stomach screamed “NOOOOO!” as I forced it into my esophagus.  After I finished, I hurried to put my plate in the sink and escape before she gave me anything else.  So here I am, writing this with no desire to ever eat again.

Anyway, here’s an update:

After class on Thursday, my mamá invited Mari and I to go somewhere with her and I didn’t really understand what it was, but I went along and when we arrived, I realized it was a tiny daycare-like place for extremely poor children.  It’s free and they go there after school to do their homework and eat a meal.  For some of them, it’s the only real meal they eat that day.  The point of it is to keep them somewhat supervised during the day and attempt to help them succeed in school.  It was a dirty, tiny place that was way understaffed.  I saw three workers for 40 children.  And it’s all volunteer.  The lady that runs it lives there.  The “facilities” included two tiny, old buildings without air conditioning.  Put together, the buildings were smaller than my crappy little apartment at the Elms in Provo.  For 40 children.  And they were very young children, about 5-9 years old.  It was so sad.  Mérida is nicer than most cities in Mexico and still that level of extreme poverty exists.  I’ve never seen anything quite like it.  It’s super sad.  :(  My mamá is part of a service committee in her church and she donates food and time several times each month.

Later that day, I went the El Centro with some people in the program to visit some museums.  There are a LOT of them in Mérida!  In one of the museums, I found this sign:


I think it does an excellent job of describing the buses here haha.  They drive so fast and at times are SO full of people!  I'm usually standing, squished between people on the way to school each morning.  Anyway, after the museum, I went with Laurel to the institute building for a class.  And it turns out there was no class haha.  So we went with a couple of friends (Beto, Thomás, and Edwin) to “El Parque de los Americas,” a really big, nice park.  We played “busca busca” (hide and go seek) and sardines.  It was so fun!



The next picture is of an amphitheater in the park.  It's so cool!  It's really big and it was constructed so someone on one end can whisper against the wall and someone on the other end can hear them perfectly.



On Friday, I went to the beach and ate a REAL churro from a street vendor there.  It was sooooo good!  And way cheap.  It costs 20 pesos ($1.70) for seven large churros.  Later that evening, Laurel, Beto, and I went to a crepe street vendor.  That lady KNOWS how to make crepes!  I had the “sensación” which included two different types of chocolate, kiwi, and strawberries.  Mmmmm….


  
After the crepe place, we went to………LA CARRERA!!!  La carrera is a drag race.  They happen every Friday night beginning at 10:30 p.m.  It was awesome!  It’s legal here…they had police watching from afar and an ambulance waiting just in case.  Some of the cars were REALLY nice and others were souped-up crappy cars.




Beto is way into cars so the carrera was his kind of thing.  He has a friend who has a nice, carrera-worthy car and he told us he raced it once.  He said that he could get his friend to let us try it if we wanted to.  I really really wanted to.  I mean, it's not like I have any idea how to race.  And it's not because I enjoy doing that kind of thing but because it's something awesome that I will never get another chance to do.  But the program has strict rules against driving cars so there is NO WAY ON EARTH I would be allowed to participate in a drag race haha.  Also, it's super dangerous and I value my life.  But still...if the rules weren't in place, I think I would have taken him up on his offer.  Maybe.





On Saturday, I went to Chichén Ítza, one of the seven wonders of the world!  It was bigger and more spread out than the other ruins we visited. 












There were TONS of people selling stuff, and a large portion of them were Mayan.  There were lots of TINY Mayan girls selling items and I felt sooooo bad for them.  It was obvious that walking around in the heat, begging people to buy their stuff was not easy.  After going to the tiny place for the poor children on Thursday, I just felt so bad for the little children, forced to spend their days begging people to buy their stuff in order to eat.  I couldn’t keep saying no to them.  Their disappointed, frustrated faces were so pitiful.  It just kept reminding me of the place with all of the poor kids.  I talked to one of the little girls.  Her name is Lili and she is five years old.  A little five year-old spending her days basically begging for money.  I took a picture with a couple of the kids and then decided to buy something from them.  They were selling little embroidered handkerchiefs.  I definitely didn’t need any but they cost less than a dollar each so I said I’d buy one.  Instantly, about ten little children surrounded me, begging me to buy their handkerchief.   I couldn’t decide.  How do you choose between those poor little kids?  So after several moments of feeling terrible, I picked a random one.  The other kids walked away, dejected.  Lili came up to me and reminded me in her adorable little voice that she was my first friend.  How could I say no to that?  So I bought another one from her.


The smallest girl on the left by the Mayan woman is Lili.





On the way back from Chichén Ítza, our tour bus was stopped by the police.  A cop entered the bus and asked us for our passports.  I had a bit of an “oh crap!” moment because I definitely do not carry a copy of my passport with me.  I know I should…we’ve been told several times that we need to, but I never got around to making a copy of it.  Luckily, most of the people didn’t have their passports so after making us wait for a while, he let us go.  So that was my encounter with the police here.  Hopefully it’s the only encounter haha.  The police here are super scary and sketchy.

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Komchén

As of today, I only have a month left in Mexico.  How sad is that?!?  Anyway, yesterday we went to another pueblo, Komchén.  The pueblo has two big fiestas each year, one in May and one in December.  Yesterday was the last day of the fiesta and as part of it, there was a “corrida de toro,” which means “bull fight.”  We left after classes for Komchén and when we arrived around 5:00, multiple people were already drunk.  There was one guy we passed several times who was very vocal in his excitement to have a group of gringos present.  I couldn’t understand a word he was saying but it was super funny….and I think all of us were a little afraid to get any closer to him.  Laurel wanted a video, so we sneakily got one when we walked past.  She pretended to be taking a picture of me as we were walking.  So it’s basically a video of my smiling face and the crazy drunk man yelling behind us haha.  I’m going to try to get it from her so I can post it on facebook. The pueblo was obviously less well-off than Mérida, but it was a cute little place.  Here’s a home we passed:


This is a picture of something really common in Mexico.  These bikes are found in all shapes and sizes and are used for all sorts of purposes such as carrying people, animals, and items.  


I was a little apprehensive to attend the fight because watching a poor animal being taunted before being killed for entertainment isn’t really my thing.  They tie a rope around the bull’s body, restraining his reproductive organs in order to make him irritated, uncomfortable, and more aggressive.  Then, they wave colorful capes at the bull, so he will try to ram the “matador” (bull fighter).  This goes on for a while until people get bored or the bull loses interest.  Traditionally, they kill the first bull to enter the ring.  Luckily, they did that yesterday so we didn’t witness anything bloody.  But I was talking to a girl in my program who also studied in Spain and she told me about what happened there.  In Spain, they kill each of the bulls that enter the ring by stabbing them to death.  She told me that one of the matadors didn’t do a very good job at first, leaving the bull bleeding and liming around.  She said that the crowd encouraged the matador to continue so the bull was killed painfully and slowly as it struggled to get away.  My roommate’s dad studied in Mexico when he was young and he told her about the bull-fight he witnessed.  He said that it was super bloody and drawn-out.  They cut off the bull’s ear and stabbed it repeatedly as the crowd cheered.  So anyway, I’m grateful our bullfight was nothing like that!  It was supposed to start at 5:00 (I think…) but since it was just a small pueblo, it started whenever they wanted.  Which ended up being almost 7:00 haha.  So, first we went to the area where the bull fighting takes place.  Here is a picture of the program director, Profe Laraway, and I:


Outside the arena was an ambulance, ready and waiting for the bull-fight to start.  It didn’t encourage much confidence haha.

Next, we went to a house where the residents of the village went to celebrate and drink.  There were a lot of Mayan people which was cool.  One older guy was trying to teach us some words.  Here is my entire Mayan vocabulary as of right now:

Xiic – armpit
Wiix – urine (the noun)
Wiixar – to urinate (the verb)
Xix - crumbs
Ko’ox – let’s go
Po’ox – butt
Moxito – boy

Extensive, huh?  So anyway, at the house, we met the owner of the house, who was super nice and welcoming.  Our tour guide is connected with the pueblo, so we were able to go to the party.  This is the tour guide explaining some details in the flag.  (check out his pants!)


As a group of Americans we were obviously different from the villagers.  Our clothing, mannerisms, accents, faces, hair, size, even the way we walk.  Because of that, we were quite the attraction.  At one point, we were worried the bull fight started without us and Nate (program facilitator/participant who served a mission in Mérida) told us we have nothing to worry about because we were basically VIP’s and they would wait for us to arrive before it started.  They even roped off a section of chairs.  Anyway, At the house were a bunch of ADORABLE Mayan children.  I talked to them for a while and they were so cute!  The first thing they asked me is why we all have blue eyes.  I told them my eyes aren't blue and I asked them what color they were.  The little girls couldn't figure it out haha.  Their only other guess was yellow.  I realized that light-colored eyes are as weird to them as yellow eyes would be to us.  They were really curious and not at all shy about it!  The little girl in the blue asked me if I spoke a different language (she noticed my accent) and when I told her English, they began asking me tons of questions about how to say things.  They asked me how to say dog, house, soccer field, etc…  Also, I learned I can understand kids speaking Spanish better than adults.  Weird, huh?


After we left the house, we went to the village cemetery.  It was way different from cemeteries in the US.  Instead of tombstones, they have large cement constructions.  The bigger part is where the casket is placed and often there is a smaller compartment for other items.  They believe you cannot make it into heaven without shoes or a hat, so they put those in the other compartment with flowers, drinks, and anything else they think the dead will need.





After the cemetery, we went to the bull-fight!  We sat in the upper level and I had a front-row seat :)


The arena was literally being held together by sticks and branches.


First, the matadores came out.  They were young men, dressed in the traditional attire. 
  


Here’s how things work:  they tie a rope around the bull, restricting the bull’s reproductive organs.  This makes him irritated, uncomfortable, and more aggressive.  After that is finished, they let a bull out.  Then, they taunt him with the capes, trying to get him to ram the capes with his horns.  This goes on until the bull gets tired or becomes uninterested.  Then, a bunch of vaqueros on horses come out and lasso their ropes around the bull’s horns.  After they have a good hold on the confused, scared bull, they get it out of the ring and let another one in.  If the matador is being chased by the bull or feels in danger, there are some white wooden barriers behind which he can hide.  The whole thing was really interesting.  Definitely a learning experience.



The white thing that say "Mini Super La Ciruela" is where the matadors hide if things are getting too close with the bull.


After the Corrida, we went back to Mérida.  We wanted to buy ice cream but our mamás had made dinner for us, so we hurried home, ate quickly, and several of us met again to go to a little Argentine ice cream store.  On the way, we passed a house in which there was someone who shouted after us, “GRINGOS!!”  To which Nate looked around and responded, “¿DÓNDE?”  It was so funny!  Obviously we are the Gringos.  We stick out worse than a sore thumb.  At least you can put a glove or covering on a sore thumb.  Here, It’s too hot to wear anything more than the bare minimum that complies with the honor code. 

As for classes, they’re going well!  The expectations are a bit higher because the professors are native Spanish speakers but they’re a lot of fun!  The upper level students in the program are taking some really challenging classes that require long, difficult papers so I am very happy to be in my mid-level grammar and conversation classes!  Tomorrow for my conversation class, we’re going out for breakfast.  :)  That makes it sound like it’s super easy but it’s actually a bit difficult at times.  We won’t JUST be eating breakfast.  We will be questioning the waiters about each thing on the menu and where they get the ingredients we’re unfamiliar with.  We’ll be conversing with random people.  There are only three of us in the class so we can’t get away with putting forth minimum effort.  The instructor, Addy, REALLY encourages us to speak to people while we’re out and at times, I can’t think of anything to say haha.  But I don’t really have a choice, so I have to carry a conversation.  It’s challenging but really fun!  I registered for a conversation class in the fall at BYU and although I’m sure it will be great, I have no doubt I will miss Addy and all of the unique learning experiences we’ve had with her!

Well, that’s it for now!

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Celestún!

Today we went on our third official excursion!  We went to Celestún, a town along the Gulf of Mexico.  On the way there, we went through some really little, poor pueblos.  Imagine the stereotype for Mexico and that was what these villages were.  It was kind of sad to think that people actually live in those circumstances. 

When we got to Celestún, we went to a restaurant by the beach.  We used the bathrooms to change and then got into motorboats.  The town is right along the beach but fairly close is a river that empties into the ocean.  The motorboat ride was long but refreshing.  And we saw dolphins!  I didn’t get a chance to take pictures and they weren’t super close, but it was still really cool anyway.


We rode the boats to an area that had a bunch of flamingos!  It was sweet!  And I learned that they get their pink color from eating shrimp.   Without the shrimp, they’re white.  Interesting, huh?




After seeing the flamingos, we went down a smaller river that was surrounded by forests.  It made me think of the movie, Anaconda.  I said that and got a glare from someone in my boat.  Probably wasn’t the best time to mention that haha.
  


From the little river we went to a place called “Ojo de Agua” (eye of water).  It’s one of the places where the fresh water empties into the salt water.  It’s a tourist site where we were allowed to swim.
  

We only had 15 minutes and it looked gross, so I didn’t swim but while I was talking to people out of the water, I was told that the area was known to have lots of crocodiles and jaguars.  And we were swimming and socializing as if no flesh-eating predators were lurking in the surrounding jungle.  Luckily, no one was consumed alive but when we left, it was evident that the water was GROSS!  After getting out of the water, my roommate had nasty stringy stuff on her body and her skin was sticky…so yeah.  I definitely do not regret avoiding the water!  During part of the time we were there, I talked to a lady from Oaxaca, Mexico.  (pronounced wuh-hock-uh)  I talked to her about where I’m from and why I’m in Mexico and then she told me her daughter is learning English.  So she called her 16 year-old daughter over to talk to me.  It was clear the girl did NOT want to talk.  Her mom kept trying to force her to talk, so I asked her if she wanted to practice speaking English.  She told me she doesn’t know any.  Then her mom told her she should get my phone number so we can practice on the phone.  Again, it was painfully clear the girl had absolutely no interest in practicing her English.  So I told her mom I don’t have a phone here and she responded by saying we could email each other.  So I gave the girl my email.  Ten bucks says she won’t email me haha.  The following several minutes were super awkward.  The mom wouldn’t let her daughter go but the daughter refused to talk to me…so I was stuck in between this uncomfortable power struggle.  They finally left, thank goodness!

Next, we got back in the boats and returned to the restaurant.  We ate lunch there and then swam in the ocean.  The restaurant was SO close to the beach!  As soon as I stepped foot outside of the restaurant, I was walking in the sand.  The shadow in the next picture is from the roof of the restaurant.  That's how close we were.  :)


The restaurant:



Well, that’s my second update for today.  One more thing I want to mention is the “Michoacana.”  It’s this awesome place to buy refrescos (cold drinks), helado (ice cream), and maletas (kinda like popsicles).  I went for the first time on Wednesday, when my professor bought us drinks after taking us to the Mercado.  How awesome is that?  For class, my teacher drove us to the market, showed us around, encouraged us to chat, and paid for our drinks.  Anyway, we tried “agua de chaya” and “horchata de coco.”  I wish I could share these drinks with everyone.  They are awesome!  Agua de chaya is made from the chaya leaf.  Chaya is a plant that is poisonous when eaten raw, but super healthy when cooked.  The drink tastes a little bit like a mixture of lemonade and pineapple but way better.  It’s one of those things that can’t be described well with words.  The other drink, horchata de coco, is a creamy, coconut-flavored drink.  I asked the guy at the shop what it’s made of, and he told me milk and coconut.  I asked him if there was anything else and he said no.  So although it obviously has plenty of sugar, I’m going to continue believing it’s just milk and coconut.  Healthy, right?  Delusion CAN be rewarding.  It tastes just like it’s name and I love it!  It’s officially my favorite drink.  Ever.  Before coming to Yucatán, I didn’t really like anything coconut-flavored.  Here, it’s my favorite flavor.  I like it even more than chocolate.  I shudder to think I’m publicly declaring that admission.  The ice cream, the drinks, the popsicles, everything with coconut is amazing!  I learned that there is a Michoacana between bus stops on my way to school.  Definitely dangerous.  Imma be obese when I return to the US.  I got a maleta de coco after class on Thursday.  Basically, it’s a coconut popsicle but it’s way different than popsicles in the US.  It’s made almost completely with shaved coconut and is very low in added sugar.  It was good but melts and falls apart super quickly.  Especially when I’m waiting for the bus in 100 degrees!

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El Mercado

Mérida has a huge market that attracts people from cities all around.  By huge, I mean HUGE!  You can get literally anything there.  I went once for my conversation class but I was a little overwhelmed by everything…so I went back yesterday with Laurel, one of my neighbors.  Walking through the Mercado, it really hit me that I’m DEFINITELY not in the US anymore.  The market is cool and I’ve learned a ton both times I’ve gone, but it is DIRTY!  I wore flip flops when I went yesterday and by the time I left, my feet were waaaay sick…There were lines of black on either side of my skin covered by the flip flops and when I washed them at home, the water was dark gray.  Also, the part that sells meat is a little bit…unsanitary.  Normally, I try to say that it’s not bad, just different.  But it was just plain unhealthy.  The meat just hangs there in the heat for who-knows-how-long until someone buys it.  I wish I could get a few swabs of the surfaces there and see what grows haha. 


The pictures don’t quite give the market justice because it’s just so big and I felt awkward taking pictures, but here are a few I took:



A Mayan lady walked in front of me right before Laurel snapped the shot, but it's okay because now I can post a picture of a Mayan without feeling like a creepy tourist.


There's an animal section filled with cages of all sorts of animals from farm animals, to pets, to exotic birds...


There are multiple mini-casinos in the mercado and I thought they were interesting...


Also, I tried a lychee.  They’re sold by the kilo and you can ask to “probar” one.  (sample)  They’re super cool-looking!
  

After the Mercado, we walked to the plaza grande in El Centro and took a bus home.  As we were walking, Laurel tripped and stumbled in front of a group of 6-10 men.  They were just loitering around and were very….concerned when she stumbled.  All of them watched and made sounds of regret and sorrow when she tripped.  Yup, they were worried haha.  I’ve realized that all of the awkward attention is just the normal culture here.  And it’s normal for the women to just ignore it.  Not bad…just different.  :)

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La Hacienda

Yesterday, I went to an institute class and then La Serenata again.  The Serenata was surprisingly different this time…I mean, they still had the traditional dancing, but not nearly as much.  Instead, they had a group of four men perform traditional songs from Yucatán with a slightly modern twist.  It was super fun!  And there were some dignities from the Cuban and Mexican governments in attendance.  When they came, tons of cameras followed them.  The guy who began the event acknowledged each of the rich, important dignities.  Also, I tried something called a "marquesita."  I bought one from a street vendor in the park.  It’s basically a hard crepe.  They use a batter similar to waffle cone batter and cook it on an iron that flattens it.  Then, while still hot, they add fillings and then roll it up!  I had one with cheese and nutella.  Kind of a weird combination but I really liked it!



I live in a part of the city where the more wealthy people live.  Some of the more expensive houses here are SUPER NICE!  I took a picture of my street and my house:

  

Also, the entire city is waaaaaaay different than anything I’ve ever seen in the USA, so I took a few pictures of streets…just to give an idea of what it’s like:





 Anyway, Mari and I were talking to our host mom and she with us some details about her husband.  I assumed he died years ago but I didn’t know anything for sure.  She said he died less than 7 months ago from a heart attack.  I didn’t realize it was so recent.  And I believe we’re the first students she has hosted since he died.  It explains why her sister, Amira, is here all of the time…to keep her company.

Today, 21 of us went to Hacienda Yaxcopoil.  An hacienda is basically a huge estate.  Many years ago, big land grants were given to the conquistadores.  Owning an hacienda indicated status, power, and wealth.  Houses were constructed and often, there was some type of revenue obtained from something on the hacienda such as a factory or plantation.  The hacienda we visited was located outside of Uman, a pueblo (town) south-west of Mérida.  We took a bus to El Centro, then another bus to Uman, and then a “cambi” from Uman to the Hacienda.  A cambi is a sort-of van that is a part of the bus system.  When we were returning to Mérida, we took a cambi instead of a bus…I sat in the front with Brianne and the driver.  His name is Juan, he has two kids, and really bad body odor.



Anyway, the hacienda was really cool…here are a few pictures from it:












This used to be a pool:


I'm not really sure what this is but I believe it was the form of revenue for the Hacienda:



Roaming around, we saw some cows.  I don't know if these cows are never fed, have parasites, or some nasty combination of the two, but they were SICKLY skinny...


 After the Hacienda, we went back to Uman and looked around a bit.  We wanted to go into the cathedral but it was closed…



So we went across the street and bought “Marchadas de Platano.”  It’s a slushy/smoothie-like refresco.  First, the guy put a banana in a cup, smashed it with a metal tool, shaved some ice by hand, put it in the cup, added horchata, sweetened condensed milk, and then finally a little vanilla.  It was super good!


While in Uman, we ran into some elders, which was cool.  We talked to them for a few minutes before they went on their way.  So anyway, that's what's new with me!


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